Lawn Renovation Basics

Before starting the renovation process, it’s important to assess your lawn’s condition. Look for signs of thatch buildup, compacted soil, bare patches, and weed infestations. Here are the key steps to prepare your lawn:

• Timing: Lawn renovation should be done when temperatures are consistently warm enough to promote recovery. Ideally in North Queensland we aim for a period where the combination of minimum and maximum temperatures regularly exceeds 36°C, as this ensures optimal soil temperatures for strong lawn recovery and growth. The ideal renovation period generally runs from August to May.
• Weed Control: Remove any weeds using a selective herbicide or manual removal methods. For further information on types of herbicides, check out the FAQs page. 
• Mowing: Mow the lawn down to a manageable height to prepare for scalping and dethatching.
• Watering: If the soil is dry and compacted, water the lawn a day or two before renovation to make aeration and dethatching more effective.
• Marking Obstacles: Identify and mark any sprinkler heads, garden edges, or other obstacles to avoid damaging them during the renovation process.
• Equipment Preparation: Ensure you have the right tools and materials for the job, such as hire equipment (mower, dethatcher, aerator), personal protective equipment (PPE), and topsoil booked in advance to avoid delays.
• Soil Testing (Optional): Conducting a soil test can provide valuable insights into pH levels and nutrient deficiencies, helping you make informed decisions about fertilisers and amendments to improve lawn health before, during and after renovation.

Scalping is the process of mowing the lawn as low as possible to remove excess leaf material and encourage fresh growth. This step is especially beneficial for warm-season grasses like Couch, Kikuyu, and Zoysia, and can also be done on Buffalo grass, though extra care is needed to avoid excessive stress.

How to Scalp

• Progressively decrease the mower height to gradually lower the grass height by mowing multiple passes at different directions. 
• For best results, remove the clippings as you go. If the thatch is especially built up and scalping is difficult, you can incorporate dethatching during this process to help efficiently remove the thatch and make scalping easier. 

Thatch is a dense layer of dead grass and organic matter that builds up between the soil and the green surface of your lawn. When it becomes too thick, it prevents water, nutrients, and oxygen from penetrating the soil and reaching the roots. Managing thatch is essential for keeping lawns healthy, as removing the excess allows for stronger root growth, improved recovery, and a more resilient turf.

The term dethatching is often used broadly to describe this process, but there are specific methods that achieve different results. Verti-mowing uses vertical blades that cut into the lawn canopy and just below the soil surface, removing deep thatch and opening the soil profile for better air, water, and nutrient movement. Scarifying works closer to the surface, scratching out moss, debris, and shallow thatch without disturbing the soil as aggressively. Verti-mowing is particularly effective for robust warm-season grasses like Couch and Kikuyu, while scarifying is more suitable for lawns with delicate stolons, such as Buffalo, or slower-recovering varieties like Zoysia.

How to Dethatch

• Use a dethatching rake or a suitable machine to thin out the thatch layer on the lawn’s surface. 
• For more stubborn thatch, scarifying can be used to scratch through the top layer, while verti-mowing may be required for deeper removal and to open the soil profile for better air, water, and nutrient flow. 
• After treatment, always mow, blow, or rake up the debris, as leaving it on the surface can smother the grass and slow recovery. 
• If the thatch layer is extremely thick, dethatching is best paired with scalping to reset the lawn and encourage strong regrowth.

When to Dethatch
Common signs your lawn needs dethatching include a spongy feel underfoot, a brown or patchy appearance after mowing, or a visibly dense layer of thatch sitting between the soil and the green blades. The best time to carry out dethatching is during the active growing season, when the grass is healthiest and can recover quickly.

Aeration helps alleviate soil compaction and improves root growth by allowing oxygen, water, and nutrients to penetrate deeper into the soil.

This process also creates an ideal opportunity to incorporate soil amendments based on the results of your soil test, ensuring the best possible conditions for lawn recovery and long-term health.

How to Determine if Your Lawn Needs Aeration

Before aerating, it's important to assess whether your lawn actually needs it. Here are some simple tests:

• The Screwdriver Test: If it's difficult to insert a screwdriver or a similar sharp object into the soil.  
• Water Pooling: If water tends to sit on the surface after rain or watering instead of soaking in.
• Poor Grass Growth: If your lawn is struggling to grow despite proper watering and fertilisation, compacted soil could be restricting root expansion and nutrient absorption.
• Heavy Foot Traffic: Lawns that experience frequent foot traffic, play areas, or vehicle movement are more prone to compaction and often require aeration more regularly.

How to Aerate

• Use a core aerator to remove small plugs of soil across the lawn.
• If your soil is good quality, you can  break down the plugs back into the lawn. However, if your soil is poor, such as heavy clay, it' s recommended to collect and remove the plugs to prevent reintroducing unwanted material back into the lawn.
• If applying fertiliser, aeration allows nutrients to be delivered directly to the root zone, promoting fast recovery. Some prefer to fertilize now, while others wait until the topdressing phase, or split the application between both stages. This is generally based on personal preference.

Topdressing is done to improve soil structure, level out uneven areas, or both. Understanding why you are topdressing can help determine the best material to use. If you need to level the yard, washed or screened sand can be a great choice as it provides a smooth, even surface. If you're looking to improve soil quality, a loam or organic-based blend will help retain moisture and provide essential nutrients for the lawn's recovery.

Using high-quality topdressing material is essential to avoid introducing weed seeds or unwanted contaminants into your lawn. Poor-quality soil can bring in invasive weeds and pests, making future maintenance more difficult.

How to Topdress

• Use a sandy loam, compost-based mix, or washed sand (generally under 3mm) depending on your topdressing goal.
• To distribute the soil easily, use a top dresser for even coverage, or manually spread it with a wheelbarrow and shovel. If using a shovel, take small scoops and flick the soil in a controlled manner to avoid excessive buildup in one area. Work in sections, ensuring an even distribution before smoothing it out with a top dresser, leveling rake, or drag mat. Focus on blending the topdressing into the existing lawn without completely covering the grass blades. This helps prevent buildup and ensures the soil integrates well into the grass without smothering it.
• The depth depends on the grass variety, with Buffalo and Zoysia requiring a lighter application to avoid smothering. Couch and Kikuyu can tolerate a more aggressive topdressing approach, but even then, keeping the layer under 10mm ensures optimal recovery. 
• Water the lawn after applying topdressing will help it settle and integrate into the existing soil profile.

A well renovated lawn requires ongoing maintenance to sustain its health and appearance. 

Consider these Key Factors

• Weed & Pest Control: Applying a pre-emergent herbicide such as Barricade or Spartan will help prevent weeds from taking over your newly renovated lawn. To protect against grubs and lawn pests that can damage new growth, use a targeted insecticide such as Acelepryn for long-term protection.
• Fertilising & Soil Health: Applying a balanced fertiliser after renovation can accelerate recovery and improve lawn health. Some prefer to fertilise during the aeration phase, while others wait until topdressing. Additionally, incorporating a soil wetter can improve water penetration and retention, particularly in sandy or hydrophobic soils.
• Watering: Keep the soil moist without over watering. This typically means watering for short durations 2 to 3 times per day immediately after a renovation, and gradually reducing frequency and increasing duration over 2-3 weeks to transition back to a normal watering schedule. Monitor soil moisture levels to ensure the lawn stays hydrated without becoming waterlogged.
• Mowing: The first mow is usually around the 2-3 week mark, depending on grass growth. Depending on what your lawn goals are will determine what height of cut you will mow at, but always aim to avoid stressing the recovering lawn by not cutting off more than one third of the leaf blade. Some weeds may appear at this stage and can be managed accordingly, often by hand weeding or isolated spraying.